Saturday, January 2, 2016

South Luangwa - Day 5

This morning was another fairly sparse game drive, though there were plentiful elephants and some much bigger bulls than I'd previously seen here. We saw several Bateleur eagles, a Western Banded Snake eagle, a beautiful paradise flycatcher, and open-billed storks in addition to the usual menagerie of birds. Hyenas were out and about this morning, possibly because their dens/burrows are filled with water and they're feeling displaced.

Several passing vehicles told us about four lions, but by the time we reached the area we could barely see one of the males, and the other male passed through our viewpoint quickly before lying down in a thicket. We watched Matabele blank ants on parade, their mouths full with termites. A saddle-billed stork caught an impressive catfish in a mud flat, and we had great fun watching it try to swallow it whole, which it finally did.

There were a few scattered zebras and giraffes and lots of female waterbuck with the impalas. It was another very cool morning, and I was grateful for the blanket in the truck to keep me cozy as we drove. A few slender mongooses ran in front of us, as did a number of squirrels. It's still overcast, but the sun is trying to peek out. I'm hopeful the drives get a bit more exciting from here on out as the roads dry a bit more. There's a lot of new tufts of bright green grass sprouting as well as new buds and leaves on the trees, including the baobabs. 

This afternoon's drive started out well with lots of herbivores out grazing and access to a few more roads than yesterday after a day of drying in the sun. We saw a lovely leopard tortoise hiding in a thicket as well as several banded mongooses. Once the sun went down we saw several genets and a couple of hyena, but nothing else was about. Still, it was lovely to be outside and enjoying the scenery and the views for several hours. Even if the rest of the week is poor sightings, I had such an amazing first few days that it's all fine. And the lodge is wonderful and very comfortable; the staff are delightful, and the food is delicious. Every whim is catered for. Tonight is my last night of being alone here, as a family of four arrives tomorrow. We'll see what the new day brings!

In search of mangoes

Lazy morning

Crested cranes



Greenery!

African Fish Eagle

Saddle-billed stork


Eating a pretty big catfish from the mudflat!




Lion, standing left of center behind the tree

Fresh buds on the baobab


Reaching as far as possible!





Leopard tortoise!


Happy croc

Lilac-breasted roller

That hoof is not in good shape




Large spotted genet
You can see why people think they are cat-like

Elephant shrew



Friday, January 1, 2016

Welcoming 2016 in Beirut

A lot of people are doing their 2016 welcome blogs, and it's a good opportunity to reflect and think ahead. I'm not big on resolutions, or at least not in January, because they seem like a good way to set yourself up for failure. I find that February and March are, for me, a better time to try to do something new, resolution-style.

I rang in the new year in low-key Lebanese style, with colleagues and new friends and a huge spread of delicious treats. The kids passed out just after 11:00 and didn't wake even when the noisemakers and toasts and fireworks began an hour later. So the parents put silly hats on them and took pictures, as one does with sleeping children. We had a lovely profiterole cake and champagne before heading back to the Embassy, rejoicing in an absence of the harrowing holiday traffic that has made Beirut a parking lot for the last few months. Apparently there's a golden time until 4:00 am when everyone starts leaving the parties. We got home at 1:30 am, and I was pretty impressed at myself for making it to that late hour!

This second three day weekend in a row is bliss, but the holidays aren't over yet! Armenian Christmas gives us another four day week next week with a mid-week holiday. And after that it's vacation time - look for some blogs of a different flavor from the recent safari posts coming soon. 

2015 brought a new post, two new countries (Lebanon and Turkey) and two familiar ones (UK and Zambia) and one Lyle Lovett concert. I gained a new sister-in-law, got to see tons of friends and relatives, and had some lovely new adventures in my new home. I get to stay put in 2016, at least in terms of moving house, and I have three new countries and two familiar ones on the books for the first half of the year.  I get to bid next summer and am excited by the possibilities for 2017 and beyond.


I'm thankful for a loving family and amazing friends and a dream career. I have things to work on, but life is generally quite good. 2015 had its ups and downs, and I'm sure 2016 will too, but I look forward to the adventure! 

Wednesday, December 16, 2015

South Luangwa - Day Four

Today was a rainy day without much other redemption. I know the park and its animals and people needed the rain, but it did put a bit of a damper on my vacation, even if I knew it was coming. I think what did it was that I was expecting a thunderstorm with a few hours of rain, so when I woke up at 5:30 to find it had rained all night and was still pouring I was a bit disheartened. I told the morning guard when he knocked that I would not safari this morning and that I'd have breakfast at 9:30. I'm sure all were relieved not to have to do anything early in this weather. I didn't sleep soundly after that but dozed on and off until 9:00.

I had a cooked breakfast today and lingered over a few cups of tea before retiring to the library to curl up in a comfy chair and read. I did this until the rain started to let up around 11:30 and then took a short nap before lunch. I stayed at the main lodge until it was time to go on our drive and enjoyed the downtime and the much cooler air.

The drive didn't result in great sightings of anything except impala, and it sadly broke my streak of having seen a leopard on every drive. We did see more giraffes today than all previous days, and at much closer range. We stuck mainly to the main roads to avoid flooding and getting stuck in the mud, which definitely limited our viewing, especially since the animals had dispersed to the now full waterholes and streams around the park. Still, I didn't want to get stuck so didn't push this. 

Birds were out en masse, eating insects and frogs and other delicacies from the puddles and streams. We saw lots of ibis, a few storks, plenty of guinea fowl, plovers, hornbills, and much more. We even saw two juvenile Bateleur eagles roosting in a tree! 

Once the sun went down we strayed a bit from the main roads on hard-packed sand roads and tried to find some hunting cats, but to no avail. Our two big sightings were a crocodile crossing the road, having left the river for a waterhole to spend the rainy season in, and a civet (like a raccoon) foraging. He didn't pose for pictures, though. The crocodile slightly indulged me even as it lumbered away from the lights.

Upon return to the lodge I discovered that they'd set up a table on my chalet's porch for my dinner. It was lovely! I dined by candlelight, listening to the birds and frogs and baboons and watching the impalas walk by and munch on new grass. There's a perfect tree for a leopard right next to my porch, and every morning I wake up and open the curtains hoping to find one there. And then I started thinking about what I would do if a leopard came up right now. I had several ideas, most of them involving wielding the candles as weapons and rushing to the door. Sadly (?) these solutions were not needed. And now I need to shower and get to sleep before another hopefully action-packed day tomorrow.


Juvenile Bateleur eagles



Crested hornbill

Shy elephant reaching for branches




A little blurry, but it's not often you see a croc crossing the road at night a long distance from the nearest water source.
I wonder what got that chunk of its tail...


Saturday, December 12, 2015

South Luangwa Day Three - PM

Rain was the theme for this afternoon. Ever since the ten day forecast online showed the days I'd be on safari I was stalking it for rain updates. November is the beginning of the short rain season, but they often begin later in the month. I had wanted to come here in October, but the rates were almost double   what they were for November, so I decided I'd risk a little rain. In some parks the first rain means a complete dispersal of game and tougher viewings because there are more water holes and the grass starts to grow. My internet research told me that the first few rains in November would be fairly short and shouldn't interfere too much with wildlife sightings. So even when the Tuesday afternoon/Wednesday morning rain predictions grew to higher percentages, I decided not to worry. Too much.

When I woke up from my post-lunch nap (a hard life, I know), there were clouds in the distance, but it was still pretty clear by the lodge. I couldn't see the lions from this morning while I was having tea on the veranda, but we decided to go look for them anyway. And, sure enough, they were there. I was wrong earlier - it was a mother and two growing cubs, but one was male and one female. And at the moment they were being backed away from their resting spot by an angry elephant who wanted them gone in the worst way. The female cub (probably a few years old) had already retreated, but mom and son stood their ground for a moment before giving up and finding a new spot to rest. Mom wore a radio collar and is said to be an excellent huntress. The cubs, however, are still learning. This was proven to be true when the female cub took off across the field heading for some antelope and using the gully as cover. Her plan was reasonably sound except that the angry elephant and two of its friends were now in the gully and caused quite a ruckus when they saw her trying to hunt. They were loud enough to chase off all the antelope, and the cub sulked in a mud hole in the gully. Mom and son had stood at the sound of the elephants but now lay back down, Mom almost seeming to sigh and shake her head. We left them be and headed off.

The next two hours were very quiet as we explored some less traversed areas of the parks, seeing lots of evidence of animals but few actual animals aside from impala, puku, and baboons and monkeys. We spotted a few shy bushbuck and one female Sharpe's grysbok, a tiny little antelope. There was evidence of both lions and buffalo having been there, but it was quiet now. We continued to explore the thickets before heading to the river bank for sundowners, kept company by baboons, impala, puku, and hippos and crocs in the water. 

We had stayed sunny and dry thus far, but the rain cloud on the horizon was drawing nearer, and the thunder and lightning were closer and more frequent. We pressed on anyway, seeing the dogs a bit down the river bank. We drew closer to them and watched as the puppies played and jumped and howled and then rushed to see some of the adults as they returned, possibly with food to regurgitate. A few of the adults looked at the nearby puku, but it was almost dark now, and they don't see well at night. We left them and pressed on.

It took longer to really get dark tonight than it has the past two nights, and the DLTs seemed to take longer to settle down into the fields. We saw another vehicle stopped and saw, as we pulled alongside, the male leopard from earlier enjoying his impala. It was still under the same tree. This time he let us watch him eat for a few minutes, spotlights and all, before retreating away from the light. We left him in peace, as did the other vehicle, and headed on. Soon after Elias said the rains were close and we should head back. It was 7:00 so not too much earlier than normal, and I was pleased that the rains held off for as long as they did. But they came with a vengeance once we reached the main road. We all hurriedly put on our rainjackets, and I bundled my camera and binoculars in their bag under my jacket. We drove quickly, and the rain was that stinging type that hurt your face. I covered my face with my hood and held on tight. Luckily we were only a few minutes away from the lodge, but it was enough for me to be soaked from the knees down. Not too bad, all things considered. I was met with a dry towel instead of the usual cold one, which I accepted gratefully. I decided to go back to my room and change before dinner. 

As we walked to my room (there's always an escort at night in case animals are nearby), the walkways were getting very wet and water was pooling. Killian, the manager, asked if I might want to dine in my room, and I gratefully agreed. I took a shower and changed into pajamas and then enjoyed a lovely dinner in my chalet, watching the lightning and listening to the thunder outside. And now it's only 8:15, and I'm ready for bed! I might get a full eight hours tonight; I told them not to wake me early if it was still raining, so we'll see what the morning brings. The positive thing is that the rain is supposed to taper off in the morning, and that's the last of rain on the forecast for the week. So here's to cooler temps and happier animals!




Elephant/lion standoff on pause for a moment.

And there it goes again. 


Very relaxed young man.

I love this photo with the tongue!


Notice Mom's tracking collar.

The young female, an independent spirit.


Getting ready to explore.

Warily checking his sister's adventures.

Hiding from elephants in the gully.

Chasing out the sister.



No eating antelope on her watch!

See how close the lions are to the lodge?

The main building is on the left, my building is the one on the very right.


This building has two rooms; mine is on the right, obscured by the tree.



Sharpe's grysbok!

The grysbok again.


It's hard to tell, but the dogs are on the riverbed hunting here.

Red-billed quelea


Leopard again!

He's back for his antelope.



He was much more tolerant of visitors at night.

Blurry head, but that tongue!