'Arab Spring' has been unseasonably mild here

I really have meant to post more often. With more interesting fodder than simply excuses for not writing. But all of a sudden I have been busier than ever with work. Which is great - I like being busy. But right now I'm acting section chief, filling in for the other two FSO positions in my office for a few weeks. Add that to one of our busiest periods since my arrival at post, and you've created the perfect recipe for a too-busy-to-blog situation. All of a sudden I've gone from counting down wistfully to R&R to now frantically thinking it's coming up too fast and lamenting my lack of packing time. Most of every day between now and my departure is fully accounted for already!

So here's a few random tidbits to tide you over until this frantic period comes to an end.

The weather the past couple of weeks has been unseasonably wonderful. We've had a longer-than-average and milder spring this year, I'm told, and, even though the days are hot and humid, the nights have been blissful. Low humidity, warm without being stifling, and always a gentle breeze to cool the air a bit. Plus, the omnipresent mosquitoes seem to have gone into hiding. This has made for several very pleasant evening events lately.

Jeddah's main roads are once again lined with Saudi flags on every light post, and there's a frantic effort to tidy things up. What does this mean? It means the King is coming soon. Every summer the King and many other senior royals and government ministers move to Jeddah, effectively shifting the locus of operations. This has increased work implications for our Consulate of course, so we've been trying to figure out when the shift will occur. Judging from the flags and now building-sized banners being erected all over town in honor of the King, any day now.

I was sitting on the couch and checking email one sunny morning last weekend, and my cats were soaking up sun rays. But as I watched them pick their favorite spots, Griffin did something very interesting. They love to lie in front of the sliding glass door to my itsy-bitsy balcony, as they have direct sunlight in the morning. I have a chair for one to snuggle on and a cat pad on the floor for the other. But instead of curling up on the pad as usual, Griffin burrowed underneath it, with only his tail and backside sticking out towards the door and sun. It must have been a bit too hot to be in full sunlight, but he still wanted his rays, so this was the next-best solution. Smart cat.

Today the cats were chasing themselves around the living room and generally wreaking havoc. I heard one of them jump up on the table behind me, and, before I knew it, I was yelling "Hattie get down from there!" I immediately realized what I'd said, but it had just slipped out. Such a natural reaction.

Last week I had the privilege of attending the graduation ceremony of a local women's college. Among the graduates was the inaugural class of Saudi Arabia's first engineering degree program for women. Quite a momentous occasion to be among these history-makers. What a great occasion to celebrate, and celebrate they did!

Right now there's an interesting story emerging in Saudi Arabia. A group of women have decided to defy the Kingdom's ban on female drivers and take to the roads on June 17th. Their Facebook page is attracting thousands of fans from the world over, and the story is beginning to go viral. See CNN's video here. It almost makes me wish I'd be in KSA on June 17th instead of in Miami. Almost. But if this happens, it'll be fascinating to watch. The last time a group of women did this, in the early 1990s in response to seeing female American soldiers driving vehicles as they prepared for the first Gulf War, there were serious consequences. The participating women lost their jobs and were banned from travel for several years, among other punishments. So far there's been no SAG reaction or warnings against this. I'll just keep watching.

And now it's time to enjoy what's left of the weekend and make a nice pasta and relax for a while. I have a busy but fun week ahead of me.

It may not be vice, but it sure ain't virtue!

I've been meaning to post this photo for a while. But this week the story has gotten even more intriguing, so it's finally time.

A couple of months ago, I was driving being driven home with a group of friends after a girls' night, and I spied this sign while we were stopped at a red light.

I couldn't even speak I was laughing so hard. Those of you who know me in real life and have witnessed one of my laugh-so-hard-I-can't-breathe episodes know what I mean. At first people were worried about me. Then someone else saw it, and then everyone, and the van erupted in fits of laughter. I mean, this sign would never appear so publicly in the U.S., let alone at multiple stop lights on one of the busiest roads in the city. Even better, the Arabic version roughly translates as "laser cosmetic surgery for women." (Or at least most of the versions do. I can't read the second word in this one closely enough to double-check. This is a friend's photo; I never managed to time my photography well enough.)

In a country where the Committee for the Prevention of Vice and Promotion of Virtue goes around separating groups of unrelated men and women and forcing women to cover themselves, this advertisement just seemed so incongruous. And yet, it became the biggest joke in the city, delighting residents and visitors alike. Around the same time, at least two electronic billboards in town started prominently displaying ads for a certain personal lubricant.

The plot thickens slightly - yesterday I realized that a number of the English sides of the sign had been replaced with other advertisements. Apparently someone clued in. Disappointing. But, it certainly livened the otherwise humdrum commute while it lasted!

Good Genes

Happy Mother's Day!! (only a few days late...)

As always, some of my most inspired blog posts come while I'm procrastinating. Tonight I'm writing in order to put off my cardio session a wee bit longer.  It's been a long week, and the couch sounds oh so much more inviting right now.

I just passed the nine month mark in Saudi - a full human gestation period! And, of course, the accompanying sadness that comes with each month's mark is present. Perhaps fittingly, I came across a reference to Hattie in a very unexpected place today. The reference answered a few of my questions and raised a few more. They'll never all be answered, and justice will never be truly achieved. It's part of the horror that surrounds her untimely death. But I don't want to spend any more energy writing about it right now.

So on to happier topics, somewhat related to human gestation periods...

In honor of Mother's Day, I want to write a post honoring the women who have guided and nurtured me my entire life. To begin, I was named for a maternal great-grandmother, who unfortunately passed away before I was born. My middle name is a slightly altered spelling of my mother's middle name. I've always loved these connections.

My maternal grandmother turns 91 next month. She has numerous children, grandchildren, great-grandchildren, and, now, a great-great-grandson. Last summer all of the children and most of the grandchildren and great-grandkids all got together for a wonderful 90th birthday party. It was a fitting tribute and a wonderful time. And she even laughed at my wholly-inappropriate gag gift :-). Grandma is still going strong at almost 91, building phenomenal gardens and keeping up with the adventures of her many progeny. I love that I can always connect with her via email even when I'm thousands of miles away.

I was born the year following my grandfather's death, and Grandma had just moved from Indiana to live with my parents in NH. We were close from the start. I have a wonderful picture of me as a toddler playing in the sandbox with Grandma. She tells hilarious stories about the games we used to play. We've stayed close all my life, and she's been there for all the milestones.

Grandma decided to go back to school late in life, graduating with a BA when she was 69.  It's not every seven year-old who can attend their grandmother's college graduation! Fittingly, I also have pictures with her at my own college graduation. In a move that I'm sure somehow influenced my own wanderlust, Grandma spent a semester studying abroad in Greece. I must have been extremely young, but I remember when she came back and opened her suitcase of treasures. I have a habit of doing the same thing, and I'm sure there's a link.

There's more to tell than could possibly fit here, but these are among the first things that come to mind when I think about the amazing woman who is my Grandmother. Can't wait to see her next month!

Aaaaaaaaaannnnnnnddddddd an hour later...

(Is it completely sad when I procrastinate from my procrastination by actually doing what I was avoiding doing instead of doing the avoidance activity? Oh well. At least I got my cardio in.)

And now a few words about my mother. This is hard, because no amount of words could do justice. My mother has been there for me every step of the way. More importantly, she has consistently supported me in all my choices. Even if they weren't the best choices. But she let me make mistakes and learn and make better decisions the next time around. As an adult, my mother is my best friend, one of the first people I go to with happy news or sad news. She lets me vent about work or life or whatever and expects me to do the same. She's always up for an adventure, whether it be a relatively spontaneous trip to Texas just to see a concert or a planned- and saved-for three week sojourn in South Africa. She even agreed to visit me in Saudi Arabia. I'm not sure it'll work out to get her here before I leave, but it's the thought that counts.

Mom worked full time when we were young, while my Dad worked from home and was there during the day with my brothers and me. I think that role reversal was a powerful influence on me. While she may regret long hours and not always being at home with us kids, she taught me that it's possible to have a family and a career and work-life balance, and for that I am very grateful. I hope to be able to do the same someday with my children.

Mom and I have a similar sense of humor and enjoy passing funny internet videos or pictures between ourselves. But we both strongly believe that sending out chain letters or the like to large groups of people should be reserved for only the truly funniest items. (The same cannot be said for everyone in our address books.)

My mother also indulges my over-protective and worrying tendencies as long as I let her do the same. So when she and my father go on a road trip, she always checks in after safely arriving. Mostly because she knows I'll email or call incessantly if she fails to do so. Just ask what happened when they once unexpectedly stopped at Gettysburg for a few hours on the way back to NH from DC... I hadn't quite stooped to calling hospitals and the police, but it was close. This expectation stands when I'm 6,000 miles away too. I try to reciprocate whenever possible. Perhaps that's the best feature of my work Blackberry - the ability to check in from Sri Lanka when I'm having a computer-free getaway. (And to be fair, if my parents had added cell phones in their arsenal of portable electronics, the whole Gettysburg debacle could have been avoided...)




There's really nothing like sitting at the kitchen counter at home, watching my mom cook something wonderful, chatting about everything and nothing, and hampering her efforts by stealing cheese or cookie dough or walnuts or whatever when her back is turned. Even scarred knuckles from raps by wooden spoons aren't a deterrence. It's a timeless shared experience. One I'm excited to repeat in a few short weeks.

In addition, I have a whole collection of amazing aunts, cousins, and other important women in my life who I won't embarrass here. We're spread around the world and have all taken very different life paths, but boy is it fun to get together with them! So in honor of all of these amazing women, and all the women in your own lives, Happy Mother's Day!

How Long Has It Been?

Fellow graduates of my alma mater should now break out singing the fight song...


It's been way too long since I wrote a blog post. I started writing one a few times, but fell asleep or got distracted before I made any headway. I'm going on day 11 of 12 straight days of work with mucho visitors to control, plus I started a new project in my free time that's time-consuming (but oh so worth it), so I'm busier than usual. If any of you have been reading the news lately, you'll also know that there are some current events keeping us hopping (a topic for another post). What a week!

Twenty-three days until R&R. If they manage to buy my ticket in time. Still one approval away, even though it's been in the system more than two months.

My office is short-staffed these days, and we're busier than ever, which means longer days and nights and weeks and less primping of hair and eating chocolate around the water cooler. (Actually, since today we ladies in the office spent a few minutes primping our hair at the beginning of the day with an exciting new product, MORE hair primping. But it was the first time we've ever actually done that, so I think we're entitled. And when a colleague commented on my hair in a meeting later, one of my office mates and I couldn't help but burst out laughing. Giddiness, or perhaps lack-of-sleep-induced insanity. Either way.) Anyway, we're busy. And tired. And giddy. I do have to admit that we almost always have chocolate near the water cooler, but it's the go-to office gift whenever someone travels, and someone is always traveling.

In honor of Mother's Day, I should write a post about the amazing women in my life. And I will. Just not tonight. Sorry Mom, Grandma, and assorted aunts and cousins. I did manage to get it together in time to send my mom flowers at work last Friday; her present will fly home with me next month. (And I promise I haven't cheaped out and won't declare myself said present.)

So there you have it - the most boring and rambling excuse post ever. I hope to have a full weekend off starting Thursday, and many tasks on my to-do list, so hopefully a more detailed blog post is among them.


One other thing - have you registered to take the Foreign Service Officer Test next month?? If not, hop on over to careers.state.gov and get to it! We're offering it at many overseas posts, including mine, so now's the time. It's free, it's computer-based, it's three hours of your life - what do you have to lose??

And with that, and another egregious fight song reference (lie down forever, lie down), it's time for bed!

Here Comes the Princess Bride, and Other Royal Musings

Sarah at Verdant Voyages is hosting this week's RoundUp, celebrating tomorrow's Royal Wedding. Which really doesn't need to be capitalized, except maybe it does. At least in the eyes of CNN and various other obsessed news outlets. And I will proudly admit loudly that I am obsessing right along with them. Well maybe not obsessing but watching with curiosity and interest.

I find royalty and monarchies fascinating, especially the modern-day incarnations. And the royal family I grew up watching was the Windsors. Prince William and I are only a couple weeks apart in age (he's older), and Princess Diana was all the rage when I was growing up. I remember clearly the day she died and being glued to the news in the days and weeks afterward. I remember my youngest brother, about 7 years old at the time, asking worriedly, "was she the Princess of all the whales?" A completely innocent and easy mistake to make when you're 7.

And I've liked Kate ever since she came onto the scene. I wish the couple all the happiness in the world as they embark on this journey together. And I'm pretty excited that I'm in a close enough time zone and have a weekend day tomorrow to watch the spectacle unfold. I ordered pizza tonight (for the first time since getting here) so I can veg out tomorrow and not have to cook.

My experience with royalty as an adult has been much different than the way I would have envisioned it growing up. I lived for a time in Thailand, where a benevolent monarchy is headed by the world's longest-ruling King. I never met any members of the royal family, though their pictures graced most buildings (and the currency).

Now I live in another kingdom, headed by a large family after whom the country is named. People estimate there are about 10,000 al-Sauds today, including a number of sons and daughters of the original King Abdulaziz. The current King, Abdullah, is flanked by several of his brothers and sons and nephews for top cabinet spots, but he and his cohort are octogenarians and ailing. There's constant chatter about succession here. King Abdullah's sister, Princess Sita, died a few weeks ago, and the country mourned.

I've never met any of the ruling generation of al-Sauds, but I've met many of the next generations, including sons/daughters of previous kings. Direct descendants of King Abdulaziz are referred to as His/Her Royal Highness (HRH), while more distant relatives are His/Her Highness (HH). And yes, it does take some getting used to to greet someone with, "A pleasure to meet you Your Royal Highness So-and-So." Since Saudi names include the names of one's father and, usually, grandfather, it makes it easy to instantly determine whether someone is a royal and an HRH.

The love Saudis have for their king is really something to see. King Abdullah, who has been king since 2005 but was effectively ruling during the last year's of his late brother Fahd's reign. I thank King Abdullah daily for his commitment to education, which makes my job sending Saudi students to the U.S. to study much easier. The number of universities has skyrocketed in the last decade, as has the number of students. And it's easier than ever, financially, for Saudi students to earn degrees in the United States. Many, many of my conversations with people here include a conversation about our alma maters. I love touring schools and seeing the King's commitment play out in real time. It's really amazing. He's a relative reformer and is committed to interfaith dialogue and improving the country's infrastructure.

When King Abdullah was in the U.S. for medical treatment earlier this year, the media reported daily on his health and progress. His return to the Kingdom in February was a sight to behold. I have never seen anything quite like it. A massive clean-up took place, especially in the major streets. Saudi flags lined the streets, hung from every telephone and light pole. Banners, posters, billboards, and signs bearing the King's likeness and well-wishes were plastered everywhere, from restaurant and mall windows to car windows to trees to fences and everything in between. His homecoming merited a public holiday in the Kingdom and was accompanied by a grand speech and announcement of a number of new public benefits. In the midst of the so-called Arab Spring, and even when nascent protests and dissent movements were popping up around the county, King Abdullah's return was, at least outwardly, a full display of nationalism and celebration. I think my favorite banner, which came shortly after the King's return, was a building-sized one hung from an under-construction restaurant. King Abdullah's face featured prominently, and the main text effectively said "No to chaos." On the eve of the King's return, the city's busy streets were filled with shabab (youth) packed into cars and proudly waving flags and wearing all manner of green and shouting and singing. In the foolhardy way youth will display their affections, there were teenagers hanging out of (moving) car windows and sunroofs with flags and green-painted faces. I even saw a rollerblader who was trailing behind a car, holding on to a rope attached to the car. The public pulse was certainly celebratory.

The flags are gone, most of the banners have been taken down, the King is ensconced in Riyadh, and life is mostly back to normal. But for a few weeks, I saw what it would be like to grow up in a monarchy. Even when there's discontent afoot, your king is your king, and you love him. (And while I know it's foolish to generalize and stereotype, I am merely reporting what I saw and heard in very public spheres, which may not be entirely representative.)

And so, tomorrow, I will watch the Royal Wedding. For there will never be another Diana, Princess of W(h)ales, but Princess Catherine represents the new generation, and the world's eyes are on her. Best of luck.

Love and Butterflies

And now for a slightly different post... (written yesterday, but held until I could get the principals to clear on it - a sign I've been working for DoS too long, perhaps?)


When I know good/exciting news, it's very hard for me not to share it with people. Even if it doesn't concern me, I get super excited for people. Pregnancies, births, engagements, marriages, new jobs, new moves, you name it. I love celebrating these milestones. But, it's not always my news to share. The good thing about having friends all over the world is that I can usually find someone completely and totally removed from the situation to share the news with. With the internet, it's so easy to spoil surprises, so I have to be extra careful.

So when I found out more than a week ago that my brother was proposing to his girlfriend yesterday, it was all I could do to keep quiet. So I told my coworkers, who were highly unlikely to speak to J and ruin the surprise. When I saw her Facebook status on Friday night saying she was sick, I was petrified I might have to keep the secret a bit longer. But Z managed to get her to go along with his plan yesterday. I don't know all the details yet, and it's their story to share, but I know it happened at their favorite place - a butterfly sanctuary. I know he had the employees in on it, ready with cameras to capture the moment and butterflies to release at the pivotal time. And I know she said yes!

I was incredibly antsy last night as I stalked Facebook for any sign that it had happened. I was (and am) fighting a GI bug, so every time I got up, I checked online. Finally Z's best friend congratulated him. So I messaged him, not wanting to jump the gun. I wrote, "is it official?" It was an agonizing 30 minutes before he wrote back, "yup!" I immediately called them and talked to both of them and congratulated them. It was so great to hear Z so happy and J so incredibly surprised and shocked and excited. Knowing my tendency to jump the gun, Z cautioned me to wait until they told her mom before saying anything online. Oh well.

Growing up, Z and I did not have a great relationship. (Mom, I know, understatement of the year.) It wasn't until we both were entering adulthood, and particularly when he became a father, that we redefined our relationship. Watching him become an amazing father and both of us falling so in love with his children gave us the foundation we needed to move forward.

A couple of years ago, he met J. Her daughter brought them together initially; it's a very cute story I won't go into here. They were inseparable from the start and never looked back. I think he knew early on he wanted to marry her. But he also knew that combining families was tough, and they both did a great job of making things work for them and their children. It doesn't hurt that the children adore each other and both Z&J.

And our family adores J and her daughter, and same for her family with Z and company. And the families get along with each other, too! It really doesn't get much better than that.

So, I am so excited today to be able to officially welcome my new sister-in-law and niece into our family, even though they've been a part of our lives and hearts for a long time now. It's a very happy Easter for all of us!

Seasonable Highs Deserve Seasonable Sighs

It's beginning to feel a lot like summer... in Saudi Arabia.

Ick.

I am well aware that it will get much, much hotter. I have not forgotten what August in Jeddah feels like. By any stretch of the imagination. But, I was really enjoying winter in Jeddah. And now it seems it's slipped away, to be replaced by many, many months of scorching heat and soaring humidity. With only the occasional sea breeze to make it tolerable.

Every time I exit a building, I am met with a wall of heat. Suffocating, oppressive heat. I am in love with air conditioning. (And so, so not in love with the air conditioner in my bedroom breaking in the middle of the night. Two nights in a row.)

If I have to hear either of the following phrases one more time, I may just crack.
"This is nothing! Just wait till summer!"
"Oh, stop complaining. It's only 105F with 85% humidity."

It makes me long for Miami in June. Which I will experience. In June. (I do, however, reserve the right to complain about the rain, hurricane, or oppressive heat that I may well find in Miami in June.)

My bidding strategy is starting to include such phrases as "no desert" and "high altitude preferred". Suggestions for temperate tropical destinations with plenty of Consular jobs, affordable help, and high differential welcomed. (Though they're likely already on my short list!)

In other news, this week's entertainment quotient went up exponentially thanks to a joke (I hope?!) making its way through the Department these days. If the words/phrases "unicorn," "fauna-centric," and "kittens waving American flags" mean nothing to you, ask someone in your office/post. I can guarantee someone will have caught on. Great morale-booster right there.

And with that, it's time for bed. Because even though this week was better than last, I still desperately need this weekend.

(unicorn)

(easter egg)

Much Better, Thanks!

I am, once again, comforted and humbled by the outpouring of support offered by the FS blogger community. My last post was a total Debbie Downer, and I questioned why I even posted it. But words of support and understanding from around the globe really helped improve my mood, and I'm thankful.

It's nine pm on a 'school night' and I'm still awake, which hasn't happened in a while. Partly it's thanks to some great naps this weekend, but it also bodes well for this week. I got some exciting news that I'll share when the time's right, which elevated my mood. And I did some thinking about the reasons I had a tough couple of weeks and have some new calming mantras to rely on. And even though I got almost nothing knocked off my to-do list (except for sewing on a couple buttons), I feel it was a useful weekend.

And with that, I'm headed to bed. It's 9:05 on a school night after all!

Sometimes I Just Can't Think of a Good Title. Especially When I'm Complaining.

Remember this post from a couple of weeks ago where I explored different facets of happiness?? I am desperately trying to channel that energy right now, when I'm staring down a rut.

I don't think it's homesickness or culture shock affecting me this week, but more a combination of stress and frustration and disappointment. It's been a tough couple weeks at work. I've come home and gone to bed at 7:30 almost every night this week, which is, even for me, early. I've had to convince myself to get out of bed every morning and promise myself that I could always go home if I absolutely had to. I haven't needed to, of course, but I had to give myself the option.

This weekend, I have had a number of really great social opportunities with friends I could have joined in on, but I just couldn't motivate myself. Even for diving. For the beach. For dinners out. I'm fully cognizant that I'm making things worse by being a homebody, but it just seems like I need to be grouchy and moody on my own right now.

In retrospect, ten months before my first R&R at a hardship/danger post was probably not great planning. True, there were a lot of external factors that contributed to the timing, but I think for my next R&R I'm going to try to plan it squarely in the middle of the year. Little weekend trips helped a lot, but it is too long a stretch between breaks.

I have been looking at flights for a short weekend away, but, unfortunately, many of the closer destinations come complete with travel warnings these days, which just won't work. And places without travel warnings are overbooked because everyone is trying to get to the same few places.

So, about six weeks until R&R. I can make it.

And I promise, I'll stop moping now. Sometimes you just need to vent, though.


Update: I actually did go and have a relaxing poolside dinner and game night with some friends. I wasn't great company, but it helped improve my mood a bit.