Friday, August 23, 2013

London Days 7-8

Day 7 called for another check on the tourist site list - royal London and changing of the guard!  I did another London Walks walk for this, meeting at St. James's Park tube station.  We wandered through the back streets and a corner of St. James's Park before crossing to Horse Guards Parade. 

This was the venue for the beach volleyball in the London Olympics; I hadn't realized just how non-beachy the setting was until I saw it in person.  Still, very cool.  Everything was staged for ceremonial events for the Queen's jubilee and Trooping the Color the following week, so it even looked a tiny bit like what I'd seen on tv.

We arrived just in time to see the changing of the guard.  There was a bit of crowd, but it was still possible to see most of what was going.  Very regal, very elegant. 

Then we quickly headed down the Mall towards Buckingham Palace, where we caught the tail end of the guard changing there too.

The Mall was all decked out in flags and splendor for the jubilee, and it was great fun to take it all in.  The Queen just happened to be hosting a garden party that morning, so we got to watch arriving guests park and walk towards the palace. 

From there we walked to Hyde Park Corner along Green Park.  As we stood under the Wellington arch, several police came up and ushered us out and to the sides.  Two horse-drawn open carriages came through the archway; we waved and gawked.  One of the occupants was the Lord Mayor of Westminster; we didn't identify the others. 

From there I headed to Oxford Street again for a late lunch at Wagamama.  Yum!

I took a nap in the afternoon, and then we ordered Indian for dinner.  We ordered from the same restaurant where L&S had their wedding reception, a lovely place not far from their flat.  I had been craving one dish they'd served at the wedding and hadn't seen in any other restaurant, so I figured out what it was (palak papdi chaat) and ordered it.  Neither of them had eaten it since, and we all enjoyed it!

Day 8 was my first and only lazy day.  I slept in and then walked down Finchley Road to do some shopping and have my semi-annual pilgrimage to Nando's.  Oh Nando's.  So good, no matter the country.  That evening we all ate dinner at a cozy Italian place on Finchley Road and then they indulged me as I wandered the aisles at Waitrose, marveling at the many wonders there. 

As always, the photos below are out of order.  Sigh.


One of the carriages in Hyde Park Corner

The outgoing guard

This photo makes it look a little chaotic, but it was, of course, quite regimented.

Starting their guard shift.


Riding back to the barracks.

Horses crossing the street :-).

The Mall in its finery.

The Queen Mum's statue. And her husband, of course.

Guards leaving Buckingham Palace for the barracks.



The Lord Mayor of Westminster. I promise.

Friday, August 16, 2013

London - Day 6

I've been to London numerous times, but I haven't done a whole lot of the major touristy things.  Since I had several weekdays to fill when my friends were working, I decided to remedy that.  I've heard rave reviews from people about London Walks and planned to do some of them as a way to see a few new sites.

Based on LW's schedule, I chose to do two walks to two popular attractions.  The first was the Tower of London.  I've always meant to get there but just hadn't quite made it.  We met outside the Tower Hill tube stop on a gray but pleasant morning.  It was a large group, and just as we set out it started to drizzle. 

The tour - a too-short two hours - covered mainly the Tower's bloody history and stopped to ponder some of the lesser visited sites.  It was a great overview and gave a historical foundation on which to explore on your own later.  We happened to see the changing of the guard - perfect timing, and unimpeded views.  Our guide wryly commented that we could stand in a dozens-deep crowd and see less than that at Buckingham Palace. 

Several of the resident ravens - the Tower's most famous inhabitants - came out to play and explore.  They perched on their custom perches and allowed us to admire them.

As many of you know, the Tower complex is immense and chock full of things to do and see.  I had no illusions of covering everything and had only one concrete goal.  Of course, it was to see the Crown Jewels.  The queue was, of course, long.  But it's England, so it was also orderly.  So I tried to ignore the growing pains in my feet and people-watch.  After just over an hour, I finally reached the door.  Only to find that there were several more rooms worth of winding queues to endure.  At least inside there were some diversions - stories on the wall, multimedia displays, etc.

Finally, after another 35 minutes of queueing, we started to get really close.  And then I was there!  One pro top my walking guide had given was to go through the jewels themselves more than once.  She said it was made to look like you had one pass and that's it, but you're welcome to linger.  Once I got into the room I understood what she meant and took several passes from both sides.

The crown jewels are pretty spectacular.  It was especially good timing because the Queen was about to celebrate the 60th anniversary of her coronation, so there was even more context. 

I lingered a bit to see the lesser marvels in the following rooms and then made my way for the exit.  I had planned to go to Oxford Street and grab lunch, but the cafeteria at the Tower looked pretty nice, so I went there.  It had numerous food stations with lots of options.  I picked and chose and found an open table and feasted.  It was, after all, about 2:30pm by then.

After dining I made my way to Oxford Street, stupidly making a line change at Monument-Bank.  Every time I do that I vow it will be the last time, and then I go and do it again. 

Oxford Street was way too chaotic for my mood by then, so I focused on the goal - stocking up at The Body Shop - and finished quickly.  I found everything I needed, and then some.  It may sound ridiculous, but I was most interested in stocking up on cotton facial pads.  The Body Shop has the best ones in the world, but U.S. stores and their online counterpart stop selling them now and again, and I had almost run out during one of these lulls.  Luckily the UK is not quite so fickle, and I bought two years worth of them.  They really are the best for applying toner, I swear. 

After making my way home and dropping my bags, I headed to Marks & Spencer to grab dinner.  My friends were working late, so I wanted something easy.  And more raspberries.  I made it my goal to eat at least a pint of them every day I was in the UK, to make up for their absence from my life in Uganda.

After a quick catchup with L&S, it was time for another good night's sleep.  Even with the excessive daylight :-).

The Tower of London complex

It really is an odd building, isn't it?

Such a gorgeous bridge


So many different architectural styles

The artistic renderings of the animals kept at the Tower are pretty awesome

Ravens live here!


Great story about QEI sitting on these steps. Can't remember. Do know people came through that gate by boat on their way to their executions.

The Queen's residence is in the corner

Guard!

That lawn! Those buildings! Quintessential Britain :-).

Hello raven!

QEII's mark

Yay!

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Home Leave Catch-Up: The Still Phenomenal Lyle Lovett

I realized I am many months (years?) behind on blog posts about trips.  So here's one from home leave 2012...

So now to talk about my absolute favoritest musician ever, Lyle Lovett.  Some of you may remember this post from three years ago, when I flew Mom to Texas for two back to back concerts.

I hadn't seen him since then, his touring schedule not jelling with my U.S. visit schedule.  Sad panda.  Luckily, though his summer tour had several convenient overlaps this year!  In April my mother asked me if I wanted tickets to see him in Shelburne, VT for my birthday.  Umm, yes.  Definitely.  I hadn't even seen that date released yet!  I took a look at the tour calendar and canvassed other available dates.  Given the hectic schedule that was going to be home leave, I hesitated to book any travel-required trips.  But, Lyle happened to be playing at one of my parents' favorite venues in MA, so I bought us another round of tickets.  Who cared if the two concerts were only three days apart!?

The date for the first concert arrived quickly - my first Tuesday back in the States.  It was an absolutely perfect, gorgeous summer day.  About 75 degrees, sunny, no storm clouds in sight.  We arrived at the Shelburne, VT venue about 20 minutes before the gate opened, got a decent parking place in the field, and grabbed our chairs.  The outdoor venue, in a huge field on a hill, was beautiful.  We had taller camp chairs, so we were obliged to sit a bit farther up the hill, the lower part reserved for those with low beach chairs and blankets.  It was busy without being crowded and a gorgeous setting.  We scoped out the vendors - co-sponsor Ben & Jerry's was giving away free samples!! - and I bought a canvas tote with a scene from "If I Had a Boat".  After a nutritious hey-I'm-just-back-in-America-from-serving-my-country-overseas dinner of nachos, frozen yogurt, and a coke, the sun set beyond Lake Champlain, and it was time for the concert!

Lyle was playing with his smaller Acoustic Group, all of whom are wonderful musicians in their own right and all of whom I enjoy seeing (almost) as much as Lyle himself.  The setting for the concert was amazing, and Lyle et al did a great job, but I think the acoustics were a bit subpar.  We didn't realize it completely at the time, but I was not as blown away by this concert as I usually am.

Three days later we drove down to Lowell, MA for concert number two.  I spent a lot of time in Lowell as a child and young adult, on field trips to the Boott Cotton Mills.  My parents go back every summer for Lowell's International Folk Festival, though I've never managed to be in the United States at the same time.  Anyway, we know Lowell pretty well.  On the drive down, it started raining.  Like blinding, pouring, can't see anything but the yellow line on the road kind of rain.  I was driving and slowed way down, and the next hour was a super-stressful stretch of road as we navigated southern NH and crossed into MA.  We arrived several hours early - as planned - and parked in the nearby garage.  We took our lawn chairs and headed to the venue to claim our spots.  Hundreds of others had had the same idea, but we still got a nice spot.  It was still drizzling and very gray, and we used garbage bags to cover our chairs in an effort to stop some of the downpour.

We walked to my parents' favorite BBQ restaurant and had a hearty dinner, capped off with a delicious slice of pecan pie.  Thus sated, we walked back to the venue.  We had another 90 minutes or so before show time, but there wasn't anywhere else to go since all the shops were closed (it must have been a Sunday afternoon; I honestly can't remember now), so we dumped the gallons of water from our now soggy chairs and settled in.  We had come prepared in good rain gear, but that didn't really help since we were already wet and sitting in wet chairs.  The rain finally tapered off, and the concert started only a little bit late.  Lyle seemed genuinely touched that so many people were willing to sit in the rain for the concert - the venue was packed! - and he was in fine form.  We were much closer to the stage than the previous night, and the acoustics must have been better, because this was truly a concert that blew me away.  Arnold McCuller joined for a few songs, but the set was otherwise almost the same.  It was just so much more powerful.

I would highly recommend checking out Arnold McCuller's, Luke Bulla's, and Keith Sewell's solo work, especially Keith's song Let Me Fall.  They each did a song of their own at the concert, and all were great.  The rain held off the for the rest of the evening, so we just had to contend with the existing dampness.  But it was worth it!

We changed into dry clothes and headed home, thus energized.  Another year, another two great concerts by Lyle.  The photos below were all taken at the Shelburne concert, since it was too wet to get out my camera in Lowell.








Lyle with Keith Sewell and Luka Bulla, my favorite small-group arrangement.



Such a perfect setting!

Thursday, July 18, 2013

No Regrets

There's a lively debate going on on an FS social media group I belong to about the merits of owning pets in the Foreign Service.  Some people think it's not worth the hassle, some think it's great if it's easy, and some wouldn't dream of moving without their furry companions.  I fall into the latter category, which should come as no surprise to any of my readers.

Yes, I complain about the difficulty of moving pets from place to place, the paperwork hassles, the expense, the extra stress, and, of course, the moment it all went horribly wrong.  But I wouldn't have it any other way.  It's all worth it the moment you let the pets out at the final destination and breathe a sigh of relief as you realize you're actually home.  Welcome kits may be inadequate, empty white walls may be sterile, but having pets in the house makes it a home. 

I must have internalized this debate more than I realized, because I had a dream last night that, while traveling to see friends, I adopted an orange cat and two ferrets with coats like cheetahs.  And since I am not a huge fan of ferrets, it's even more odd.  The furry cheetah coats were pretty cute though.  Anyway.  I woke up this morning with a slight panic at the thought of moving around five pets instead of two and only calmed down when I realized it was a dream.  It got me thinking, though, do I have any regrets about bringing pets overseas?

And you know?  I don't think I do.  I have guilt - guilt every time I put the cats on a plane, immense guilt over Hattie's death, guilt about leaving the cats when I go on vacation - but they're not regrets.  I don't regret bringing Hattie with me; I do regret that I wasn't more aggressive in getting her out of customs, but that was due to lack of experience and local knowledge.  She wouldn't have wanted to stay in NH without me.  My cats may not like flying, but neither do I.  And it is a small price to pay for several years of staying put and being  happy together. 

There's probably more poignant things I could say, but I would encourage any FS community member (or, really, any expat) to figure out how important pets are to you and proceed accordingly.  There's no right answer, and it could always go horribly wrong, but most of the time it goes wonderfully right.  And that makes it worth it to me.

Monday, July 15, 2013

The Equator!

I was, sadly, sick on my birthday and had to cancel a weekend getaway to Jinja.  (All of the other planned travelers were also sick or just recovering, so it worked out.)  After a restful Friday afternoon, I felt well enough to go for what I thought would be a half-day trip.  My friend and I borrowed another friend's driver and took off in search of the equator! 

The closest equator crossing in Uganda is about 75 km southwest of Kampala.  I figured this would be about an hour and a half or maybe a two hour drive.  We pulled in more than three hours after setting off.  (The drive back took only two and a half hours.)

The equator crossing consists of two circle-like structures on either side of the road with a line connecting them, two small cafes, and several touristy craft shops.  We browsed the shops, decided everything was over-priced and available elsewhere, had a quick lunch (filling though unremarkable), and then headed back.

The Baganda royal drum-makers have their workshops on the same road, but there was construction on the entire stretch and nowhere safe to pull off and take a look.  It won't be my last chance - this is the road to many of the country's attractions!

My parents pointed out that there was some cosmic balance to celebrating my birthday by straddling the northern and southern hemispheres since I was born on the night of the 20th century's largest lunar eclipse.  Kind of a neat way to think about it!

Here are the only two photos I took that day - kind of anticlimactic, I know.



Friday, July 5, 2013

The Caper of the Pink Sapphires

Hattie holds a revered place on this blog, and most of my stories about her are happy tributes.  But she had her unpleasant quirks, like any sentient being, and this story is about one of them.

We were Hattie's third owners, the second being short-lived when Hattie and a resident cat did not get along.  Her first owner worked in an office, and that's where Hattie grew up, spending most days at work.  She apparently spent her days sniffing out and sampling office supplies, because by the time she arrived in our lives at the age of three she had a very refined palate.  If, by refined, you mean sharp metal things.

Paper clips, staples. thumbtacks, pins, needles, nails, and push pins were Hattie's particular favorites, but she wouldn't turn up her nose at a few morsels of broken glass or an errant BB pellet.  She had an uncanny ability to enter a new place and immediately find (and feast upon) the last remnant of a glass broken months if not years before.

It was almost as if she had a canine version of pica.  For all of these assaults to her digestive system, though, she was remarkably healthy.  Still, I spent much of the seven years she was in my life scouring the ground for possible hazards. 

This quirk was merely that, until it wasn't.  Until the day my beloved pink sapphire earrings went missing.  The ones I'd bought on vacation in Jamaica the year before.  The ones that perfectly matched the ring I'd bought with them.  I walked into my room to find the box open, on the floor, apparently knocked off of my dresser.  I assume the fall was accidental, but the jewelry box tissue wet with slobber was a clear giveaway. 

After a few tears and choice words, I resigned myself to sorting through excrement for the next several days.  That was a truly horrible week, for more reasons than one.  I did find one earring but not the other.  But what was even more telling was what else I found.  Have you ever seen a pushpin after it has gone through a small dog's intestinal tract?  Sadly, I have.  More than once.  Paper clips, intact.  A couple of small carpet tacks.  And who knows what else I've repressed.

I put the found earring in a glass of soapy water on the counter while I pondered what to do next.  Then, that night, it was gone.  My mother had not seen the contents of the glass and put it through the dishwasher.  After an hour digging through the intestinal tract of the dishwasher, I had an insanely clean pink sapphire earring.  It remains, to this day, a solitary one.

The sapphire earrings were not the only victim of Hattie's odd appetite.  To this day I am unable to find a black pearl pendant I had made in Tahiti.  I keep holding out hope I'll open a long-forgotten box, and there it'll be, but I think I know what really happened. 

I've gotten a few other pairs of pink sapphire earrings over the years, none of which are quite like the one I lost. 

So imagine my delight when, tonight, I opened a birthday present from my parents and found the most gorgeous pair of pink sapphire earrings.  They're not quite the same, but they may even be better.  Instead of a light pink, they're a dark, rosy, warm color with lovely sparkle.  I love them.  My parents, watching my reaction on Skype, said they've been looking for years for a replacement for Hattie's indiscretion.

I love that we can now laugh over Hattie's peculiar predilection.  I'm still a little angry - especially about the pearl - but all I can do is look forward.  And Hattie would not be Hattie without her obsession with small, sharp, metal things. 

But I can tell you one thing.  I'm hiding these from the cats.  While they've never shown any fondness for metal supplements to their diet (plastic bags unfortunately being Griffin's favorite snack), once burned, twice shy, as the adage goes. 

Saturday, June 29, 2013

Almost Complaining

My friend J (http://365baddays.blogspot.com/) occasionally complains that I don't post negative things on my blog (or at least not negative enough to make her not want to bid here), and it's true that for the most part I try to stay upbeat.  And since most of the worst potholes on my major routes have been fixed this week, I don't have a lot to complain about today.

Except that I'm sick.  Not sick enough to be sleeping on the bathroom floor or wishing I was unconscious, but sick enough to feel icky and complain a lot.  Two concurrent bacterial infections and a persistent sore throat plus headaches and GI distress adds up to just enough to keep me down.  I crawled my way through the week only missing a half day (to be fair, things got worse over the course of the week, so I was only mildly uncomfortable until the last couple days) and looked forward to 2.5 straight days of doing nothing. 

And the first 24 hours were wonderful and much needed.  But now I'm a little bored.  And trying to talk myself out of going down to the gym and walking on the treadmill for a while.  Just walking.  But I think even that would be too much.  But it does mean most of the week will be a wash in my 10,000 daily steps attempt.

I cooked this morning, thought about baking (even had a friend pick up butter for me!), but now I'm not hungry after a big brunch of pancakes.  I even made tea.  Those of you who know me well know how unusual that is.  It's the first time I've ever used my teapot to boil water for that purpose (and I've owned said teapot for three years).  I've watched almost an entire season of Gilmore Girls.  I've read a book.  I even read a couple of magazines.  I took two naps.  I'm not complaining - I am actually loving having an enforced weekend of rest.  I'm just amazed how quickly I got bored.

Anyway, this is not really a negative post, and I'm not convinced I wouldn't have gotten sick in another post, but it's what's going on.  Hopefully I'll get motivated enough to post a few other things tomorrow :-).

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Home vs Homesick

It's a wonderfully lazy Saturday here in Kampala.  I've been mildly ill since getting back from London (a fun combination of weekly migraines and daily headaches, intestinal distress, and cold symptoms off and on), so I'm purposely trying to take it easy.  That's been hard to do while seconded to a different section this month, but I'm trying.

This morning I went to the farmers' market, which is about all the energy I could bear to expend.  I bought a market basket full of gorgeous broccoli and cauliflower (the dry season has produced some absolutely phenomenal heads of both!), stocked up on veggies for a taco salad later this week, and had a lovely brunch with a friend.  I made the egg/pesto/bread/cheese vendor laugh when I took mock offense at his suggestion of substituting feta for ricotta in a recipe (since they had sold out of the former), the pasta vendor noticed I hadn't been there in a few weeks, and I ran into plenty of people I know, if even only by sight.  Kampala is home, for now, and I am enjoying the comfortable familiarity that comes with settling in.

I came home and made a hearty broccoli cheddar soup, using the local broccoli and some sharp English cheddar I brought back from London.  It's simmering on the stove now.  The cats are cuddled up together on the couch, blissfully happy to have me in the house. 

It wasn't until I spoke to my mother that I got an unexpected pang of homesickness.  My hometown is celebrating its 250th anniversary, and my mom and nephew were heading down the hill for a narrated carriage ride through town visiting some of its historic sites.  The weekend also includes community meals, a concert, and a town photo with everyone who shows up.  I love that kind of thing and am sad to miss out on the fun. 

Feeling both at home and distinctly homesick is a strange phenomenon, but one that is instantly familiar to anyone in the FS, or even expat, community.  I guess anyone who has moved away from their hometown experiences this, really. 

So now I am going to enjoy a steaming bowl of broccoli cheddar goodness and watch a beautiful Kampala sunset over Lake Victoria.  Not a bad place to be, really.

Sunday, June 16, 2013

London Day 5


Tuesday morning I woke up to a slightly gray day, but it wasn't raining too much yet.  I made my way to Piccadilly Circus and had brunch at a cafe - a lovely mid-week indulgence.  I then headed to one of my favorite places to spend a few hours - Fortnum and Mason.  I adore browsing its many floors and luxuries and pretending for a few minutes that I am the type of person who could afford (and would use) a fine china tea set.  I guess I could probably afford and use it, but you know what I mean.  Actually, I do have a beautiful fine china tea set from my grandmother, now that I think about it.  Anyway.  I managed not to buy the $30 60th anniversary coronation decorative plate, but I did indulge in some jams, honeys, and scrumptious extravagances.  After a quick stop at Pret A Manger for a sandwich and Boots for some shampoo, I was back at the flat and resting in preparation for the evening's big outing.

I met L at Victoria station, and we boarded a big coach bus for the long (because it was rush hour) ride out past Watford Junction to Leavesden.  I had spent the previous two weeks preparing for this, watching 20 hours of movies to refresh my memories in preparation for our visit to the Harry Potter Studio Tour!

I am not going to divulge too many details because I think that takes away from the magic (pun intended) of the experience for the many of my friends/readers who will visit this at some point.  The timed entry helps keep the crowds slightly managed (and we were there at 6pm on a Tuesday!), and, because it's England, the many queues are well-organized and have entertaining distractions. 

The special part about visiting on the week we did was that the animal actors from the films were on hand to meet their fans.  (I don't think any of the animals we met were ACTUALLY in the films, but the animal trainers from the films were on hand with new generations of actors who will go on to other films.)  We met representations of Scabbers, Trevor, Hedwig, Crookshanks, Mrs. Filch, Fang, and oh so many more.  We got to watch kittens train to marks, as seen in Dolores Umbridge's office plates.  The owls were everywhere - all colors, sizes, and shapes.  My favorite, though, was the beautiful Hedwig lookalike who posed on the Privet Drive sign for photos with adoring fans.  And yes, we did get to meet Buckbeak, but he's there all the time, so you will too!

Butterbeer is cloyingly sweet, the attention to detail on EVERYTHING is truly amazing, and the entire cast and crew of these eight amazing films were phenomenally dedicated to bringing JK Rowling's vision to life.

Here are my tips for the visit: go during the day.  We had the last tour of the day, and we felt a little pressured to go through it more quickly than we might have, had we not known it was closing soon.  Your ticket is good for a timed entry, but once inside you can spend as long as you like.  It's not easy to get to by public transport, but it's not impossible.  This is another plus for going during the day.  We did a coach package with round-trip transport, which limited our time slightly and was much more expensive.  It was the easiest and quickest way to get there and back, but I might do it differently next time.  Buy the audio guide - there are plenty of interactive features, but you learn that much more about everything there from the audio.  There's A LOT of material included on this - it can be overwhelming.  There's a cafeteria on site, but by the time we finished the tour, there were only cold things left.  Not sure how their hot food measures up.

The bus ride back was much quicker thanks to little traffic, and they let us off at Baker Street (an option only made known to us AFTER we trekked to Victoria, which was out of the way), and it was a quick tube trip home.  Well worth a visit!

Photos contain no spoilers - enjoy!

Owl - so tiny!

Trevor!

Scabbers!

Many different animals portrayed each role.

The four Hedwigs

The Crookshanks crew

I love this owl!

Is there anything cuter than a habitat full of 6 kittens playing?

Spooky eyes!

Kitten!

Fang lookalike. Female, clearly.

Oh how I love this :-).

The real Buckbeak! Oh, wait...

Owls in the alley